Welcome to Essex: a land of dragons, witches, warriors, geezers, myths and legends.
 
Everyone in Britain thinks they know about Essex, but this book reveals the truth at the heart of England's most fascinating yet misunderstood county. Follow in the footsteps of an epic 400km storytelling adventure through Essex's wildest places with this unique blend of travelogue, story collection and walking companion. You'll never see Essex the same way again!
 
 
THE JOURNEY
 
In 2025, storyteller James Lawrence embarked on The Essex Ways: an 400km adventure of walking, exploring and camping in some of Essex’s wildest places, to prove there’s a lot more to the county than tired media stereotypes. This book follows in the footsteps of his epic journey, in which he was:
 
Haunted in one of England's oldest churches
Struck down by a witch’s curse
Nearly swallowed by the deadly mud of the Dengie marshes
Guided by his trusty companions, a wise old man and a water goddess
Introduced to dozens of Essex characters, from punk anarchists to pub regulars
Taken in, fed and housed by strangers who soon became friends
 
 
THE STORIES
 
During his journey, James gathered as many Essex stories as he could: from ancient buildings and old books, from interviews with Essex residents, and from trees, rocks and the land itself. These stories, spanning history, myths and folklore across thousands of years, tell the true story of Essex and its people, and show how Essex today is not so different from its mythical past. Discover stories such as:
 
Dick Turpin, the Dandy Roadman
Captain Ann Carter, the Essex Girl Robin Hood
Captain Swing, who swept across the county leaving fire and destruction in his wake
The Mad Blacksmith who risked everything to save his town's footpaths
The giant king who could walk from Colchester to Ipswich in seven steps
The Ghost Town that saved countless lives in WW2
The Viking brothers who hack each other to pieces each full moon
The surprising history of witchcraft and wizardry across the county
Demon dogs, monstrous cats and bloodthirsty dragons
The surprising persistence of the Old Devil
Pirates, smugglers and cannibals
Magic wells, enchanted stones, haunted marshes and wild woods
 
 
THE WALKS
 
Each of the book’s 21 chapters contains a map and story illustrations beautifully drawn by Stacey Williamson-Michie, as well as 42 walking routes. Whether you are a lifelong Essex resident or have never set foot in the county’s great outdoors, you can embark on your own adventures to discover the stories and legends of the land, in the places where they happened:#
 
The Brownfield Rainforest growing out of an abandoned oil refinery
The longest stretch of uninhabited coastline in southern Britain
Thatched cottage villages with ancient castles
The world's oldest wooden church
The world's oldest barn
The largest area of 10,000 year old wildwood in eastern England
Europe’s largest collection of ancient trees
One of England’s oldest churches, over 1,400 years old
Essex's very own Taj Mahal